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Alumi-UV is a single component, semi-flexible, extremely durable, clear doming and coating resin. Once cured with UV light (365nm), it produces a high gloss coating on paper, plastic, wood, metal, and more. Alumi-UV has a medium viscosity which is great for covering items and applying even coating to unsymmetrical shaped items. Multiple coats can be applied to build coating thickness. This one part system is shelf stable when stored between 55 and 80 degrees F. See Technical Data Sheet below for light curing specifications (365nm). Cure times vary based on light source.

*AlumiUV is not a UV Stabilizer additive for resin

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Bezel pendant finding (this tutorial uses thisone inch by two inch rectangular silver pendant tray)

Resin Obsession Super clear casting resin

Trim your clip art to fit your pendant.  I decided to go with the exact shape of the bezel for this project, but certainly you could do some neat shapes.  Let your imagination go wild!

Seal your clip art with glue and allow to dry.

Seal your paper again into your bezel cup.  Put down a layer of glue, then apply your paper.  Seal on top.  I will usually seal with two coats of Ultra seal, then wait 24 hours to allow it to completely dry.

Properly mix your resin.  (We have a video onHow to Mix Epoxy Resinon our You Tube channel.)

Slowly pour your resin into your bezel cup.  Squeezing the cup together to form a spout will help you control your pour.  Only pour a small amount, then let the resin spread.  Add more as necessary.  You only want enough resin to barely cover the bottom of the pendant.  This will allow you to pour a second layer with your inclusion.

(Note:  You could add the inclusion in the first layer and be done in one pour, but I like doing it in two pours because it gives the pendant a bit more depth like the inclusion is floating)

Use a toothpick to spread the resin out to the corners of your pendant.  Allow to cure for several hours or overnight before pouring your next layer of resin.  (Dont forget to check for bubbles!)

Pour your second layer of resin like you did the first, but be careful again not to over pour.  Carefully place your inclusion in the resin.  If your inclusion is porous, it must be sealed with ultra seal first.  Read here onHow to properly seal papers or findings for including in resin jewelry.

Use a toothpick to move your inclusion within your resin.  Allow the piece to cure as before.

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If I wanted to pour resin into round earring bezels like in the link below. How would I do that and still give them a dome look?

You will need to use a doming resin. I would suggest our Envirotex jewelry resin for such a project.

Hi can I use the ultra seal to glue paper to pendant , let dry and then put ultra seal around perimeter and insert dome glass? Please advise. This is a mans man trying to do dainty work in order to please granddaughter. Thank you. Signed: sloppy poppy

@Jim, Yes, the ultra seal glue will work fine.

I have a very small work area and fill about a dozen prices at a time, usually one or two end up spilling out of the tray For various reasons. The pendants dont stick to my work surface but many pendant trays have a textured back and the resin gets in those ridges and is really hard to get off. Do you think coating the backs with Vaseline would keep resin from curing in those nooks and crannies? Is there another product I could use that I could block only the backs and is easily removed or can be washed off once the resin is dry?

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Compact, entry level manual doming system for short run and sample production. Complete with quality control unit for fast curing of domed products in a warm, dry and dust free environment.

Doming is the process of applying polyurethane resin overnon-porous materialstypically printed and cut adhesive labelvinyls,which are allowed to cure then applied to promotional items such as keyrings, badges, plaques and more. However, the possibilities with resin doming also means you can dome almost any non-porous material such as plastics, metal, glass and wood, protecting your items from from scratches, dents and creating a professional finish.

HP Photosmart C5678 Wireless All-in-One Printer

SLA / Resin 3D printers usually need some form of post curing with additional UV light to strengthen the model and to cure excess resin that is not washed away. A strip of UV LED lights inside a paint can provide the right spectrum and intensity of UV light that cures parts quickly and evenly.

After building aDIY SLA / resin 3D printer, we tried several methods to post-cure the parts after printing. Some methods such as those described on theMadesolid blogworked, but were not perfect solutions.

This little project was quick, easy to execute and only cost about $40-$50.

Other common post-cure methods include:

Submerging a part in water and using the Sun: Drawbacks I experienced were uneven cure, too fast cure that caused cracking and was hard to control.

Regardless of light curing method, a 3-4 minute Isopropyl Alcohol wash or similar part cleaning procedure is needed before UV post-cure.

********************************************************************************

To make a cheap and effective UV curing ovenYoull need:

Non-waterproof strips without the clear doming may provide more UV light

One gallon paint can or similarly sized container.

*Some Ultraviolet LED strips come with power supplies and dont require additional wiring.*

1) Wire the power supply to the LED strip, by cutting and stripping the 2 positive (red) and negative (black) ends of the small round connector.

2) Solder the corresponding positive and negative wires to the LED terminal.

3) Plug-in and test your LEDs with a few drops of UV resin. It may take several minutes for only a few LEDs to cure the resin. The more closely they are clustered together, the more intense the light and faster the cure times will be.

4) Make the inside of your container reflective with some foil tape to increase light intensity. A metal paint can works great because the even, round shape and its ability to dissipate heat through the can from the LEDs.

5) Use double sided scotch tape to mount the LEDs to the inside of the container as close as possible. Space rows less than a centimeter apart. A 5 meter LED strip will just about perfectly fill up the walls of a paint can. Typically, LED strips can also be cut or added to.

*Optional* Make a small tray by wrapping foil tape to a round piece of cardboard. SLA / resin 3D prints can be sticky before post-cure. UV resin irritates the eyes and skin. Always use gloves!

We found that (1) 5 meter LED strip (wavelength:395-405nm) coiled inside a paint can was sufficient to cure parts in about 10-20 minutes. Rotating parts at least once or twice to expose the bottom every 10 minutes was also helpful.

*The UV oven should not be closed while in use. Be sure your part does not have excessive Isopropyl Alcohol on it. This could be a fire hazzard.*

*Parts cured this type of UV oven had less powerdering, more even color and seemed to last longer.*

*We have an unconfirmed hypothesis that extra heat inside the chamber may help with curing.*

Did you make this project? Share it with us!

Please be positive and constructive.

I am working on DLP printer and for post curing method i have decided to use UV lamp.I would like to know the temperature and time for which the printed part should be subjected to UV light for better mechanical properties?Is UV oven better than UV lamp?

Has anyone else found that their LEDs turn yellow after around a full weeks use?

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Anyone using Colores Doming Resin (or another resin) in pendant trays? I have 100 trays from China Findings. They are too deep for the drops, so I need to make Colores work. I am getting bubbles deep (touching the image) that are too deep for me to get. They dont seem to be working themselves up to the top.

Also, the resin seems to be yellowing or something. Its so thick that next to the same image on a bottlecap, the pendant looks quite dull.

Ive been meaning to do the same but after hearing people having issues with bubbles and such lately Ive been chickening outplus the only time I get to do it is in the nitetime when everyone is asleep otherwise Id have kids running back and forth and wanting to dig in and touch everything. Ive been debating on sending my supplies to someone to do for me.

If they are really deep i would do it in two layers instead of all at once. HTH

Thanks for the video link. I had seen that before but forgot about it. My pendant trays seem like they are 3 times that deep. Im not impressed with the amount of resin it takes to fill them.

I will try working in two layers. Has anyone done that before? I switched to mod podge for sealing my image, and I think the air bubbles that Im getting are sitting in the brush strokes from the mod podge. Its been quite a bummer to not get a perfect image, especially b/c I thought these were going to be such good sellers for me.

maybe a spray sealer would work better?

maybe a spray sealer would work better?

Ill try that, too. I used to seal with Kryon triple thick glaze, but the images on my caps kept popping up on the edges, so I moved to mod podge. I havent tried the Krylon with the pendant trays. I dont want to get a bunch of overspray on the tray though, right? Or maybe if I spray the whole thing it will not show. I guess Im just going to have to play with itthe problem is that the resin isnt cheap, and I have to use the whole batch or dump it. I dont want to waste all my supplies.

If anyone else out there uses Colores w/mod podge sealer, are you getting bubbles caught in your brush strokes?

they sell a mod podge spray sealer. i got a bottle at walmart. Hubby picked it up in the spray paint department.

Have you tried the Krylon spray sealer?__________________

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Whether youre making gifts, pieces to sell, or something special for yourself, personalizing adds an extra-special touch to any creation.

There are lots of ways to personalize your resin projects with names, initials and words. This video shows my favorite techniques:

Here are some handy links mentioned in the video:ADDING TYPE WITH PHOTOSHOPRESIZE PHOTOS USING Microsoft Word or GoogleDocsDOMING UP!CLEAN, EASY COLOR WITH RESIN COLOR FILMMULTI-PHOTO JEWELRYPHOTO CABOCHONSMAKING HOLIDAY PHOTO ORNAMENTSRESIN IN BEZELSDIFFERENT WAYS TO COLOR YOUR RESINADDING FINDINGS TO YOUR RESIN CREATIONS

So this is a post Ill be adding to as we come up with more ideas.  First up, my daughter asked for help to create her Halloween costume this year, Raven from Teen Titans.  She pulled together the costume, and I made the accessories belt, cape pin, hand amulets and upside-down diamond-shaped bindis.  I think they came out pretty amazing so I thought Id share in case you want to try something similar:

For the gems:Cast Brilliant Resin in our Silicone Cabochons Mold, mounted Resin Color Film in Jewel Red on the back of each, followed by a cut circle of aluminum foil applied with a thin coat of resin for optimal reflection.

For the gold belt:You can buy a gold belt, but I just got some fake leather and a clip from JoAnn Fabrics and made one on the cheap.  Cast thin round shapes to back gems in our Large Circles Molds (psst you can customize our Large or Hearts mold sets to get multiples of the shape you want!)  I mixed gold powder into the resin thinking the resulting cast would be shiny nope, just cast them clear to keep it simple.

So I spray painted these cast Brilliant Resin pieces and the belt to get the look I wanted.

For the Cloak Pin:I made a larger jewel and needed a larger lightweight piece in gold to back it.  I found this perfectly-sided canning top at JoAnn Fabrics (spray painted above).  I didnt need the slit in the middle, but it would be covered with the jewel so it didnt matter.  I applied 2 pin-backs to this piece so make it really secure.

You could attach these pieces all together in many different ways, but since I had Brilliant Resin on-hand, I embedded the belt and the pins into thickened resin on the backs of each piece.  I waited about 1 hour before pushing the belt and pin-backs into the resin, but it was 104F here, so if its a normal temp where youre working, you may want to wait a bit longer to let your resin get nice and thick.

I placed the belt in the top half of each gem-back instead of in the center, so the gems wouldnt flip over while the belt is worn.  The finished pieces have a nice weight to them.

Finally I attached the gems to the golden belt circles using Gorilla Glue Clear (love this stuff, by the way 🙂

For the Bindi:I made a few sizes (not having her head handy), simply cut shapes out of our Resin Color Film, domed them with Brilliant Resin, and once they were set up I painted the back with silver nail polish.  You could do this on the larger pieces too but they wont reflect as well. She applied it with eyelash glue.

Finished costume (minus the wig, saving that for party night 🙂

STEP 1: Mix Glow In The Dark powder into Brilliant Resin and pour a thin layer in your mold

These powders give a much better glow than GITD nail polish, and can be found in many places.Heres a link to the one I used, which was great, but the container had waaaaaay more than I needed for years to come, so see if you can get a smaller amount to save $

STEP 2: Pop out cast pieces, stick on clear-backed stickers/insert images/paint on designs, and Dome them Up (click here to watch Doming Up how-to video).

The projects below were done the same way, but with images printed onto ourClear Photo FilmThe round NBC Jack Skellington pendant, the creepy skeleton pendant, and the skull keychain were made using theDoming Technique- clear resin on one side, resin with GITD Powder on the back side:

The pendant on this spider necklace was made using ourMedium Silicone Mold, the beads were made in ourSilicone Cabochons Mold. For these, we printed these images onClear Photo Film, and cast them inBrilliant Resin.  We then mixed GITD Powder into a new batch of resin, and Domed Up the backs. After 1-1/2 hours, I was able to embed the wire into the cast shapes.See this how-to videofor reference on embedding wire in resin.

Heres another using an image copied ontoClear Photo Film, this ones in color and domed on both sides.  On the back I added GITD Powder, and embedded a pin into the resin as it was setting.  It looks very different from day to night.

Again,heres a link to the Glow Powder I usedwhich was really strong, but try to find a smaller container for sale or youll have enough for a lifetime.

More fun project ideas for Halloween, mixed in with favorites:

The pendants above were cast in our Medium Molds, thenDomed Upover a piece ofResin Color Film, with a bit of glitter mixed into the resin.  Let that set up an hour or two, then push bent wire forms into the resin making a ripple effect and glossy dimension.

For this necklace I also embedded wire in cast pieces.  Images were printed onClear Photo Film.  I embedded the film in clear Brilliant Resin using ourMedium Silicone MoldandCabochons Mold.  We then added GITD powder into the resin to Dome Up the backs of these pieces, and embedded the wire as they were setting up.CLICK HEREfor more Glow In The Dark Project Ideas.

Youll need Brilliant Resin, Resin Color Film, a Doming Tray, and a Spring Drill, and some colored wire.  Cut strips were domed, then shaped (as shown in our Brilliant 3D Butterflies video), drilled, and attached with colored wire.  The top one is about 3-1/2 across, the bottom one is about 1-1/4 across, and can be made into a necklace or earring.

We used Dichro-ISH Films layered in Brilliant Resin, in our Large Circle Mold, with a cat sticker.  This shows